For a job like this, it's best to hire an expert!

We took this flower floor from an idea to what you see in the pictures below. This is a laundry room and our client wanted something custom. We went to Tile House of Marietta and started throwing ideas against the wall. We came out with flowers and plank tile. At this point we started devising a plan to get the floor done. The floor had joists 24" on center which would not have supported the added weight of tile so we added another layer of plywood. We couldn't use Ditra mat for underlayment because it is not rated for mosaics under 2". The only other option was Permat by Blanke and that's the blue you see in the prep photos. Next we set the plank tile...6"x36"....Let all that dry and we came back to get our mosaic area up to the same level as the plank. That required us creating a depth stick and filling the area with thin set so the flower mosaics would be at the same level as the planks. We let that dry and then set our flowers which involved cutting a hundred little pieces and putting them in like a puzzle. We let that dry and grouted with Prizm grout by Custom. Now looking at this 42sqft floor you would not think it would be this much work (over 20 hours) but when you're dealing with a custom floor the details all add up. These type of high end projects are perfect for us and I love them because they are functional works of art.

Ardex Thinset. We care about our stick-um. You should too!

We've been using Ardex products for a while now. Been able to form a really nice relationship with Fishman's in Marietta and it's a great store. Ardex X4 is our main thin set. It's really a very consistent, quality product. The best feature with Ardex X4 is no slake time. What is 'slake' you ask? Well, when mixing thin set you're going to give it one initial mix...however much you need, with whatever amount of water the thin set (or grout) calls for. After this first mix you let the thin set 'slake' for 15 minutes. This slake time allows for a chemical reaction within the thin set or grout to occur. All the different parts of the thin set or grout need time to blend with the water and fire off. After 15 minutes is up you hit it with your mixer and it's ready. With Ardex thin set slaking isn't necessary so over a day if you're mixing four bags you can save an hour of waiting on thinset. We also love the working consistency and I think a lot of that has to do with the sand they use. The video below shows what I mean.  Best part, above all else, is that this thin set dries HARD. All that being said, know that a lot of thought goes into the material we use and we're thankful to have Ardex products in our bullpen!

Backsplash Johns Creek

This is  a backsplash we did in Johns Creek. This one included the tear out and we went back with Kerdi board which is waterproof and most importantly dust free. It is also easier for us to use. The most important thing though, is using Kerdi Board compared to sheetrock is an UPGRADE. This stone had some problems in quality and I added some photos of the quality issues too. Different thicknesses, different lengths and sizes. Makes it much harder for the installer...but you know what, we regularly overcome this stuff. I just caution you, If you're buying tile, check the quality because it makes a difference. We also upgraded by using FULL SILICONE caulking for the junction of the Back splash and the counter, and Custom's Prism grout  with Ardex X4 thinset. The above details are not industry standard. The people we did this for were super nice and obviously value the right things in life... So kudos to them and we are off to do some more tile!

Just a wee floor.

One of our recent projects is this floor. Floor and Décor porcelain 12x24" tile ...Made in the USA...(thumbs up)  We used Ardex Fl Grout. Ardex X5 thinset is our new main squeeze, dries HARD with no slake time...."slake time" you ask? a talk for another blog. We ground glue off this floor. STICKY glue. (another service we provide) We applied crack suppressant. Every one of these tiles was back buttered and we installed four expansion joints. Our competition said the previous two steps were not necessary. (We investigate these things when allowed) Schluter A-125 thresholds in a couple of the doors. The A-125 is a ramp that transitions to linoleum. (or any lower service) Really is a nice little detail. Another great example of a "full service" tile job you can expect from Hamilton Tile. Located in Kennesaw, GA and hopefully we can get the homeowner to write a review for our website...(my new mission...."review section" should help) A few pictures of a lifetime floor.

Schluter Drain and Assembly

Here's a little video displaying the Schluter drain and assembly we use for our new showers.  We set the assembly in a wet bed of dry pack and we then begin sloping our pan. A 1/4" of slope per foot is standard. Now to clarify, we do not use foam pans. We custom pack all of our shower pans because when you have the knowledge and the ability, why wouldn't you? It's really been a great couple of weeks.

Schluter profiles

Schluter profiles can be used for many different applications. They function as a protective barrier for the edge of a tile. I also personally love the unique look they add to a shower or backsplash. We use them to edge curbs, inset boxes, in doorways as thresholds, and they also have a whole line of expansion joints. They come in plastic or metal with a range of different finishes, shapes and sizes. Check out the short video from the manufacturer and hopefully you'll allow us to use some profiles on your next project!

How your shower drain can make or break the final look of your new shower.

Compare and contrast the visual appeal of the top drain and the bottom drain and be sure to ask your potential installer, "What does the drain you'll be providing me with look like?"

Very often the smallest detail will make or break the over all esthetics of a shower. Factors like, what kind of grout did the installer use? Did they use 100% silicone sealant or bottom of the barrel latex caulk? And the granddaddy of pet peeves for me, did they use a high end drain or a drain that should have been left on the shelf at the tile store and not in your timeless, one of a kind, custom shower.

All of our showers come standard with a Schluter Systems Drain. Not only does Schluter produce a superior design in terms of engineering but the looks are second to none as well. The Schluter drain's engineering takes out multiple steps in the drain installation process, so again Schluter coming through with a simpler more efficient process for their installers.

Click here to read Schluter's full break down of their drain.

We install this drain on a 2" pipe and embed our pan around the drain body. There are no weep holes to mess with or pre slopes, This is a contained system and our water proofing membrane sits on top of the drain body itself.

As you can see the fabric sits on top of the drain and the slope directs the water into the plumbing and out of the shower.

Now below, for you to compare and contrast....we have the drain you've seen in every basic, builder grade, blow out special shower install. This ruins what would other wise be a beautiful shower install because the installer went cheap on one part! Yes, you can get alternative drain covers, but that will be an extra cost...the advantage of Schluter Systems is in their drain package you get a beautiful, heavy duty drain cover STANDARD at a cost of around $100. Start adding all the parts together on a traditional drain (for an updated, custom cover) you'll be close to that amount and you'll still have an antiquated, old school part in terms of engineering.

Here we have the design....same one that has been used since the 1980's even though there is better. This is the key functionary in a "water in, water out system" keep your weep holes free and be sure to install a pre-slope...or you'll have a swamp in your shower pan in no time!

A standard drain. Drab, melancholy...Just screaming to be freshened up! We will not install this monstrosity in your home!

Ultimately, your shower is something you will use everyday. After a hard days work, every morning, whatever your routine is. You'll spend upwards of $15k on this one of a kind investment. Why make it average and use a system, a drain, that is antiquated and dated. At the end of the day you should have the best, most modern and visually pleasing drain you can possibly get. Ask your installer, what kind of drain will you be using? What is the difference between a "contained system" and a "water in, water out" system. What are the advantages and disadvantages? ONE detail, like what drain is used can make all the difference! 

Schluter has many drain options. Brushed nickel, oil rubbed bronze, chrome, a tile-able option so you tile the top of the drain with whatever tile is in your shower pan, and linear drains.

A great finished product is essentially TEN SMALL DETAILS added up! We think 10 steps ahead and 20 years in the future to provide you with a stunning, one of a kind, functional masterpiece.

A one of a kind shower, not skipping the details.

A day in the life.

Messy day today. Grinding off a thick layer of glue from a laminate floor. This floor is getting 12x24" tile. We get the question all the time..."Do you do the work, or do you sub it out?" Well your answer is in the video below. Here's the boss doing the grubbiest part. With me filming like usual! I swear I'm good for something!

Does your installer use a wet film gauge for liquid waterproofing

There are different ways to water proof a shower. We use foam boards and membranes which are fool proof. Some will use what we call 'roll on' membranes or a 'liquid' membrane. One example is Red Guard by Custom. When you're getting bids and the competition tells you they're going to use a liquid membrane, ask them if they'll be using a wet film gauge when applying the membrane. I'll bet they aren't.  What we find in the field is most guys will paint one or two coats of liquid red guard on the walls and think that's good enough....Oh no, my friends. Manufacturer specifications insist you install liquid membranes to a certain thickness. The only way to know that thickness is with a wet film gauge. It measures the thickness of the waterproofing liquid. Just painting on two coats of red guard and calling it 'good enough' is not sufficient and it leads to the failure of many showers and the only way to fix a leaky shower....tear it out. Don't be the victim of a construction nightmare. The industry is moving towards foam and waterproof membranes for a reason...That reason being using cement board and liquid waterproofing is an antiquated installation technique.

Tile Quality is the name of the game...prove me wrong!

As a homeowner you go to the tile store and you find a tile you love and the price is right. You would think your job is done. If you're shopping at a place like Floor and Décor or  you have access to the stock of tile you are purchasing, we recommend you do a tile guy 'trick' that sales people at the tile store will not tell you. Take two tile and put them finish face to finish face. Look at the edges and see if they flare out. This phenomenon is called 'cupping' and when a tile cups it makes it next to impossible for us to get a perfectly flat, lip free install. That is why tile manufacturers will recommend not installing tile 50% offset (brickset) The middle of the tile is cupped high, the edges are cupped low and you will have a horrible lip at the junction of the three tiles. Below, I model two garbage tile that should never have been purchased. This information is invaluable to you because most won't even inform you of this problem. As you can see from the photo the middle of the two face to face tile is tight, while the edges flare out. If you care about a perfect finished product, be wary of what tile you buy! You get what you pay for and the saying couldn't be more true then when you are buying tile.

Ditra uncoupling mat for tile floors.

We use Ditra by Schluter systems on most installations.

Back splash lighting, more important than you think!

It's tough being a tile guy sometimes ! We strive for perfection and get nailed by forces against our power. Our job often times depends on how the other trades involved do their jobs. Just came from a job where we put up a natural stone backsplash. We were aware that there would be backsplash lighting. We recommended that the electrician should install his lighting to the front of the cabinet at least 12" away from the backsplash because we follow national standards and expect the other trades to as well. The lighting makes a difference to the look of the tile and unfortunately it was installed tight to the back wall. This installation detail has negative consequences and I consistently see it in different homes... What is the standard response from electricians? Of course the kiss of death "This is how we've always done it!"

ANSI (American National standards Institute) has determined that all back splash lighting should be installed 12" from the back splash to the front of the cabinet... When back splash lighting is installed tight against the finished back splash you get an effect called "wall wash" which accentuates distortions in the tile surface.

Read the back splash lighting installation standard below:

Click here to read an article about "wall wash'   from the TCNA (Tile council of North America)
 

The main problem is everything will look great to us while are setting the tile, and as soon as the backsplash lighting is turned on you see lips as well as the different thicknesses in the stone .  The manufacturer making irregular tile and the electrician not following industry standards is a factor to our art. This happens and is a fixable event, but drives tile guys NUTS. The best practice is to have the backsplash lighting, or any lighting for that matter, installed before the tile goes up so we can see what the finished product will look like. Mounting your under cabinet lights to the front of the cabinet and not against the wall is best so you don't have weird shadows and it won't negatively impact the look of the tile. 

Be sure to verify with your electrician where he/she will be installing back splash lighting and whether or not they will be following industry standards.

If they are not following ANSI standards (American National Standards) be sure to show them the very informative link above. These guidelines have been determined and set by people far smarter than us and with foresight beyond our ability. Respect the standard handbook practices to eliminate unwanted surprises!

Another often ignored detail that will effect the over all finish of your home remodel!

Remodel in Decatur

Been working in Decatur this week putting together a bathroom and kitchen. Helping our tile guy friend Cain who's under the gun. 'Quick, hurry! The renter's coming back in a week!' But as the demolition is happening more and more rot is being found. So the first half of the week is fixing rot, and the latter part was putting it all back together. Had to 'mud' a bathroom floor. (Yes, we do that) 'Mudding' is a process where you use sand mix to build up and level a floor. Definitely a dying art form but when you're working on homes built prior to 1970 it's a necessary skill to know. Job was really a nightmare in hindsight. You can probably tell from the photo below. Small house, with three different crews working at the same time all week. Not my cup of tea. In a perfect world we get to manage the job site and items get done in steps. Each crew (painters, elec, plumbing)  has a designated amount of time to finish their part. In my view when things are rushed, yes the project gets done...but not as well. The quality takes a hit when everyone is working on top of each other. What you see on HGTV or DIY network is not how things go.  Really makes you appreciate good leadership. There's a word that is under utilized in the construction industry..."leadership." I digress. A topic for another blog post. Ok, Have a great weekend. Over and out.

FAQ's.

Morning all. I'm okay with saying the website is a work in progress. I suppose the major hang up in sales and marketing for our business is the fact that Jason and I actually spend a majority of our time installing and finishing home improvement projects. Both of us have lives. Jason's a father of two, I like to exercise, hike, LIVE. I feel as if the compilation of photos on our site shows a mastery in our trade, and that is what we're going for. Now, in speaking with a potential customer yesterday I began to think if this website would actually answer the questions she was asking me. Unfortunately, the answer was no. A lot of the questions are about cost. The cost of any project has so many variables it would be nearly impossible to convey on a page but I'm going to make an effort anyway in hopes of weeding out some of the 'price shopper' calls. We regularly use our time to go on calls that we have no chance of getting because peoples expectation of cost is so far from our reality. So I'm going to start putting together and FAQ section and I encourage anyone (Jason) who sees this blog to post any questions they feel would be helpful. I suppose the key is to devise some good general questions about what to expect during a tile project. So I'm going to start noting some good questions I hear in the field and hopefully the FAQ page won't be lame.

Cleaning your new shower.

Before we leave a job, we always advise our customer on cleaning their new shower. Now, to go roaring in there with a 'Clorox' or a 'Mr. Clean' would be a BIG mistake. You want to use a PH neutral cleaner. Avoid cleaners with chlorides. All cleaners should be free of hydro chloric and hydro fluoric acid. Basically, the heavy duty cleaners will corrode your brand new shower. I see this at the Lifetime Fitness I go to. All natural stone showers, corroded to the max. Avoid abrasive cleaners. Be sure to tell your cleaning people because often times they do not know any better. Here's a nice PH neutral cleaner you can get right at Home Depot:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Bona-32-oz-Stone-Tile-and-Laminate-Cleaner-WM700051184/202528548

A little 'tip of the day' to help you avoid unnecessary damage to your property.

Schluter systems...keeping installers educated.

Schluter systems is really a great company. They make sure to keep installers AND homeowners informed and educated about the importance of having a shower or tub surround waterproof, while also pointing out the advancements in the tile industry. I'd say a very important factor in a great tile guy is whether they keep themselves educated in their trade. Jason and I are constantly learning new techniques, improving our current techniques and refining our skills. Hope this helped you become a more informed tile customer!

Building a website.

I like to think I can do anything I set my mind to. The latest challenge has been becoming a web master. Ninja, webmaster, tile guy! Hiya! Figuring out what SEO is, embedding html, etc. Basically saying.... it's all a work in progress! Our main goal here is to show why we're different and to show you why you should pay a little extra to have us do your job. What you'll be paying for is a high level of craftsmanship and attentiveness to details most guys will ignore. A satisfied homeowner is a lot of little details, really. This week set a 1200sf plank tile floor and started another basement shower. This weekend finishing a glass backsplash and will hopefully have some photos!

A new Instagram account.

Well, continuing with my idea of flooding the world wide web, I decided to make an Instagram account. You know, Instagram. You post pictures and comments, on and on. I figured, heck, pretty cool way of getting out there in real time. 

https://www.instagram.com/hamiltontilega/

Day2 rectified edge, wood look tile basement.